Comparison of Upper Body Power Between Sport Climbers and Boulderers

Wednesday, March 30, 2011
Exhibit Hall Poster Area 1 (Convention Center)
Chee Hoi Leong, The University of Utah, Salt Lake City, UT and Jill Crussemeyer, California State UniversityLong Beach, Long Beach, CA

Background/Purpose Boulderers are perceived to possess higher upper body power estimates than sport climbers because the nature of bouldering indicates its greater reliance on the creatine phosphate energy system. This descriptive study compared the upper body power between sport climbers and boulderers. Our secondary purpose was to determine whether upper body power correlated with climbing skill levels.

Method Twenty-four sport climbers (12 males, 12 females) and 21 boulderers (11 males, 10 females), of various climbing skill levels (self-reported rating on the sport climbing Yosemite Decimal System and bouldering V-scale) volunteered as participants. We used Wingate arm-ergometry, push-up, and maximal campusboard reach tests to assess upper body power. Anthropometry was used to assess body dimensions.

Analysis/Results There were no significant differences in upper body power or body dimensions between sport climbers and boulderers. Higher maximal campusboard reach scores correlated with higher climbing skill levels within each of the four climbing- and sex-specific groups (r ≥ 0.65, p < 0.05).

Conclusions Undetectable upper body power or anthropometric differences between sport climbers and boulderers may suggest that a sport climber may not require greater upper body power or distinguishing anthropometric characteristics to be successful in bouldering or vice versa. The significant correlation of the campusboard reach scores to climbing skill levels for all groups suggests that campusboard reach ability may be more representative of climbing performance than the Wingate or push-up power tests. Hence, the incorporation of the low-cost campusboard reach into the training program of sport climbers and boulderers may improve their climbing skill levels.